Ready to finish this up? I am, for sure. I don’t like to tackle huge projects like this without breaking it up in chunks so I don’t get discouraged.
10. Pin the bodice lining pieces right sides together to the dress bodice making sure that the corners all line up. At this point the straps are lying in between the bodice and the bodice lining hanging down.
11. Sew around the top edge. Trim the seam allowance and grade the seam allowance at the V in the center.
“Grade the seam allowance” might sound weird, but all it means is to make little cuts in the back bodice piece in the V. I drew some on so you could see; just make some snips right up (but not over) the seam.
Next, trim your corners where you have a 90 degree turn, just the corners on the straps and where the buttonholes go.
Last trim around any curved part of the bodice with pinking shears. Or you can clip your curves. You want to clip and trim close to the seam, but don’t go over!
12. Turn the bodice, press and topstitch the top edge.
Use a bodkin (or something) to poke the corners out. Do not skip pressing! I know you were thinking about it!
13. Under the arms sew a row of stitching approximately 1 cm or 3/8 in. from the underarm seam. This should extend slightly beyond the side pieces.
Ok, this is what I do. Use a fabric marking pen (this is a pen with ink that will disappear when washed) mark 1/2 inch from the top along the side pieces. I make little dots but you can connect them to a line. Start at one side:
And make little dots to the other side:
Now just stitch over your dots. Start at one side and backstitch and then follow the dots (or line if you connected them) to the other side and backstitch to lock.
14. Thread a piece of elastic through the resulting casing. Stitch one end of the casing, securing one end of the elastic. Try the dress on and cinch the elastic to the desired fit, pin the elastic. Stitch the elastic in place and trim any excess. Stitch the button holds and attach the buttons.
My side pieces measured at 6 inches across so I cut my 1/4 inch elastic at 4 inches. Do have your model try it on if she is available. The shorter you make the elastic the more difficult it is to thread and attach it though.
Here is my elastic with a safety pin:
Now remember which way you pressed your side seams. If you were paying attention they are pressed toward the back so you are going to want to thread the elastic from the front and ending in the back so it will be easier to navigate that side seam that is right in the middle of the casing. Work the safety pin in between the bodice and lining to the casing and push it through. When the end of the elastic just peeks out from the beginning opening of the casing, sew the casing closed. I follow the topstitch line for the side piece to make it easier. Don’t forget to backstitch: you don’t want your stitches coming out! Continue to thread the elastic through and when you get to the other end pull a little bit of elastic out and sew the other end closed.
I don’t like my lining flopping around, so I tack it down at the side seams. I just take a needle and thread and attach the lining to the seam with a few stitches. It won’t show from the front and will keep the lining inside, where it belongs.
You will be better prepared than me and have buttons all picked out. Yellow flowers was all that I could find that remotely matched so that’s what we’re going with today. Mark your buttonholes (or button holds, according to farbenmix) with a fabric pen. It should look like a capital I.
Sew your button holes, and sew your buttons on the straps and you are DONE! Great job!
I would love to see your vidas, so please let me know if you found this tutorial helpful.