Megan wanted to update her room from the nursery, which I thought was fair since she was 7 years old. She picked a bed in a bag set from Target and that’s where we started. The problem was the comforter was so thick and hot it was not useful for a little girl’s bedroom in Florida. I tried to fold it down at the end of the daybed but it so bulky that didn’t work either.

I decided if I cut it up I could make a quilt. But I was scared to make a quilt (see, that’s what took the months of thinking!). I decided to do a rag quilt. I had made lap rag quilts for the kid for Christmas and they are cute and cuddly without being to thick.

Thanks Jacob and Scrappy for modeling it!

I bought flannel for the back and started cutting squares 14 x 14 inches. I cut up the comforter, quilter’s cotton and the curtains Megan picked out to match that were too long for the front and flannel for the back.  Oh, here are the curtains, cute right? I sewed black out fabric to the back and cut them to cafe length so we could put her little toy baskets under the window.

The black out fabric is not blacking out! Megan’s favorite part: lavender sparkly finials. Found them at Lowes!

I cut 35 squares for each side (the quilt is 7 by 5 squares for a twin size). Then I sewed the cotton side to the flannel side. I tried to vary the way I stitched them together: I did an x on some, a plus sign on others and lines running diagonal on the rest. It kept things interesting because I was getting a little frustrated at how long this project was taking (and I also went to JoAnn’s twice because I ran out of fabric).

After I had all the squares ready, I just sewed them together to make lines of 5 squares across. I sewed cotton side to cotton side so the raggy side would be on the flannel side.

For the binding, I cut strips of flannel and sewed it around the cotton side and then flipped it around to the flannel side and stitched in the ditch all the way around.

After all the sewing, I had to cut, cut, cut! I cut little slits all the way around the binding and seams on the flannel side. Then I washed it.

Megan loves the finished project and I love that she can actually use it at night! 

For this project you need one or more old t-shirts, elastic and 20 minutes. That’s it!

Start with an old t-shirt. I have to apologize for these pictures; it was so dark and rainy the flash went off for most of them and it really distorts the colors.

Through both layers, cut off the arms.

Just under the collar, make one straight cut through both layers of the shirt.

On just the back, cut a straight line just under the bottom of where the sleeve was.

If you want, you can finish the sides and back. I serged the edge, starting at the top, running down the side, across the back and then back up the other side. You can use a zig zag stitch, or doing nothing at all, really. It’s a personal preference.

Try it on your victim. If it is gaping, you’ll want to make a casing for elastic. Also note if the halter top is too short at this point. Question: does her hair look greenish to you? I think it was starting to look a little green and bought special shampoo the last time we got haircuts and it still looks green to me!

Fold under 1/2 inch and press. Sew, starting at the top side and backstitch and stop at the side seam. Leave a couple of inches and then sew the back. Stop a couple of inches from the other side seam (don’t forget to backstitch) and then start again from the side seam and continue all the way up to the top. Now you have a casing for elastic.

Measure your victim, on the back from armpit to armpit. This is the length to make the elastic. Put a safety-pin in one end of the elastic and run in through the hole you left when you made the casing.

When you get all the elastic in the casing, sew it inside at the beginning end (top to bottom in the casing). When you get to the other side, repeat so that the elastic is secure in both sides. Sew the casing closed at both ends.

I serge the top and fold it over the same way as the sides and back.

That’s it! You can run ribbon through the top casing and tie it around the neck. On a top that was too short, I cut off the bottom of a second shirt and used it as the tie and then used the middle of the shirt to extend the length. On another one, I cut off the bottom of the original shirt and added length from a second shirt. The possibilities are endless! 

Don’t mind the little sourpuss. She was completely finished with pictures at this point and was ready to go into the pool (it had finally stopped raining!).

ps: Happy 4th of July! Don’t you love it when last year’s outfit still fits? I know Tiffani does! By the way, we need good craft projects for sand dollars. Megan collected about 30 the last time we went to the beach. We finally got the smelly things bleached and ready for crafting (it’s hard when there’s no sun!).

Florida law recommends all children under 80 pounds and 4’9″ tall be in at least a booster seat. So Megan will probably be in this seat for a little while anyway. I let her pick out some fabric and we experimented until I figured out how to duplicate the seat cover. Basically I cut up the old one and traced it to make a pattern. I did take some measurements so if you have a Graco backless booster you can use them to make one for yourself!

For this project you will need: about a half yard of cover fabric (I used flannel), a half yard of lining fabric (I used an old towel), fleece for padding and 1/4 inch elastic. I used scraps from old projects and it worked out great. I actually made four of these with my fooling around so I hope I have some tips that will save you time and frustration!

I basically drew two intersecting rectangles from the existing cover. I included the measurements below. You can round off the edges to make it more like the existing cover. You can download the measurements here:

boosterpattern

The pattern is NOT 100%. You need to draw your own rectangles using those measurements. I had to reduce it to fit on one page so if you use them as-is you will get a teeny tiny booster seat cover!

Cut out the top fabric. To save some time and aggravation, lay the top fabric on top of the lining fabric, right sides together and pin. That way when you cut out the lining fabric they are all pinned together and ready to go. For the lining I decided to use an old ripped beach towel so I could turn it over when we were coming home from the beach. The cover is reversible so use whatever lining you would like!

I added the elastic at this point. You need two pieces 5 1/2″ long for the top and one 18″ long for the middle. Pin the short loops sandwiched in between the cover and lining fabric at each top corner.

Pin the long elastic at the middle of the side piece (the short rectangle). Cut out the lining fabric when you done pinning all the way around. You can baste the elastic into place if you would like.

Cut a rectangle of fleece 11″ by 16 1/2″. Pin this to the middle of the cover on the top.

Sew! Sew 1/4″ around the cover. Start at the side piece that does not have the elastic pinned to it. Leave the side piece open to turn it rightside-out. Sew all around, going over the elastic twice (forward, backstitch and then on again).

Clip your corners and curves. I used pinking shears and just trimmed all the way around.

Turn it rightside-out and press. Be very careful, it will be difficult to pull it through the small home, so don’t rip it! Push out all the corners with a stick or your fingers and press it flat.

Topstitch all the way around, except for the open side. That way if you ripped any of the side stitching on the small rectangle you can get it closed again. The towel unravels quickly if you don’t watch it!

Cut the corners on the open side and tuck in the raw edges. Bring the long piece of elastic around from the other side and tuck in. Stitch the side closed, going over the elastic three times (forward, backstitch and then on again).

To attach, run the elastic on the hooks on the bottom of the booster seat and loop the long piece around the bottom. Look: it’s my helper!

It is reversible, so we can turn it over when we are coming home from the beach.

That’s it! Now I have a little booster seat cover that is reversible, cute and easily washable. Hope you make one too!

ps Some of you might remember the four legged helper who is interested in all sewing projects. Well, Megan got another four legged helper for her birthday who is ten times worse: this one can jump on the table! She has dragged serger thread all throughout the house and knocked pins, patterns and rulers clear off the table! Don’t let this cute face fool you: she is devious! 

It was not that hard so you can do it too, I promise!

Material needed: Emma Swing Top Pattern (available from youcanmakethis.com) and fabric amounts instructed in pattern, 3/4 inch elastic

The first step is to cut out the pattern pieces. Cut out the front and lining, band, ruffles, straps and front contrast and front contrast lining as normal. For the back, measure your munchkin from armpit to armpit to get a back measurement (or measure all around and then divide by 2). Now take your back measurement and multiply by 1 1/2. Take your back piece and extend it. Megan’s back is 12 inches so I multiplied by 1 1/2 and got 18. So I extended the back piece so the top would be 9 inches (remember you are cutting on a fold).

Now cut out a back contrast piece and back contrast lining piece that same length as your back piece. The width should be the same as your front contrast pieces. I cut out the back contrast piece 1 3/4 x 9 inches and the back contrast lining piece 2 x 9 inches.

Now put the top together by the directions. You will have to fiddle around to decide where the straps go in the back, I put them in 4 1/2 inches from the sides because that looked about right. You want them more in the middle than on the side. When you attach the contrast piece to the top, make a gap in the sewing at each side. Decide how long you want the back elastic. I made mine 8 inches. Insert the elastic with a safety-pin and attach at each seam. Sew your gaps closed in the contrast and you are done!

Hope this helped! This is a cute little summer top that is very versatile so I hope I made it little more modest.

I was noticing some of the teachers had on Vera Bradley quilty-like fabric lanyards so of course I thought, hey, I can do that! I couldn’t find a lot of instructions on how so I figured it out myself. I made one for myself and a couple of parents put in orders. At our school, if you are a regular volunteer you get a badge with your id in it and most parents wear them on a boring blue lanyard the school provides. Now they don’t have to! All you need is a narrow strip of fabric, interfacing, matching thread and a clasp of your choice. It’s easy and quick too! 

The first step involves some math. It is not much and it is pretty easy. Decide how wide you want your lanyard. I have to be difficult and decide an inch is too wide and a half an inch is too narrow. So I pick 5/8 of an inch. Take this number and multiply by 4 (or double it twice). For the length, just decide how long you would like it. I measured the lanyard they gave us at school and got 36 inches. So I cut one strip of fabric 2 1/2 inches wide by 36 inches long.

Cut one strip of interfacing half that width, so I cut a strip 18 inches long by 1 1/4 inches wide. Iron it on straight down the middle of your fabric strip.

Fold and iron the raw edges inward so that they meet in the middle.

Now fold it in half and iron, lining up the edges.

Now unfold and line up the edges, right size together. You can pin if you like, but you certainly don’t have to! If you have chosen a clasp that you cannot attach after the fabric is looped, run it though now. I am using a ring like you put keys on so I can do it afterward.

 Sew and iron the seams open. Now refold everything and iron again. You will get to know your iron during this project, if nothing else!

Now sew down both long sides.

Attach your ring if you haven’t already.

I like to sew a little “x” down by the end where the key ring and clasp will be. It keeps the ring from running up and down the lanyard. It is probably not necessary but I think it looks neat. I sew across the bottom (don’t forget to backstitch!) then up diagonally, across and then back down. Easy peasy!

Isn’t this a cute little project? They would make great teacher gifts too. Just be careful that your pattern isn’t too big for the narrow lanyard.

Ok, I am off to Michigan for a week! Hope everyone has a great spring break!

Halloween was tough this year, I found a store-bought pattern for fairies that looked pretty easy so of course it wasn’t. Luckily my mom was around to help with the petals and I made two bodices before deciding on the simply sweet halter top that I liked. What a pain that stupid fairy outfit was, but look how cute she is!

It was much more difficult than last year’s Halloween costume. I used Carla’s portrait peasant to make a quick and easy Snow White costume. So cute and I’ve learned my lesson!

For school outfits, I had her Hello Kitty vida which needed its straps repaired and I went ahead and added buttons. I had originally had the straps knotted through the buttonholes and never really liked it. I also added the pom pom trim to jazz it up.

I also had to lengthen the twirl skort pattern for the second time to make her this outfit. I fear this will probably be the last time I can make this one for her, without serious alterations. It is one of her favorite patterns though.

I decided to try that Katrin pattern I used for her back to school outfit again on a black kitty jumper in corduroy. So appropriate for the 85 degree Octobers we have here! I was so ticked off I made it too short so now it needs leggings to go with it. I just didn’t buy enough fabric, it was completely my fault.

The Mother/Son Dance had a 60′s theme so I dragged brought Jacob to the fabric store and he picked out this crazy looking batik. I made him Carla’s festive vest and myself a tunic. Alas, we did not win best dressed with all those fancy moms in their mod dresses and gogo boots. It was a wild sight and we had a great time!

For Thanksgiving, Megan picked out this patchwork-looking fabric and I made her a tunic. I was going to ruffle up some jeans to go with them, but she only has three pairs and I figured she would only wear this top for a month. What a horrible mom I am!

With the leftovers, I made my mom some criss cross coasters (which I love because there is no topstitching). I made some for Megan’s teacher and she said, “They’re so cute! What are they?” I laughed about that one, but I am so glad she asked me! Can you imagine getting a gift and then not knowing what to do with it? You don’t see a lot of fabric coasters around, so it’s a good thing they are so cute.

And that’s October and November! Thanks for checking in with me and I will update with December projects soon (I promise!).

Start with a chair, measuring tape or a ruler, fabric and thread. I would use heavy duty fabric that is the same on both sides. My teacher bought bright denim that is heavy weight and cute for first graders. I also bought a denim needle for my machine and heavy duty thread.

Now it’s time to measure. You need to measure the width of the chair back, the height of the chair back and how high you need the pocket to come to hold what you want to put in it. It the chair is narrow at the top, measure at the widest point so your pocket will fit. Once you have your measurements, take your width and add an inch to an inch and a half to allow it to fit. To your height, take your height of the chair back, multiply by two, add the measurement for the pocket and add an inch for the hem. That is your total length. Cut out a rectangle to your measurements.

Zig zag stitch or serge the short edges. Press a half inch hem on one short side.

Flip over your fabric and press a half inch hem on the other short side. So you will have one hem on the “right” side of the fabric and one hem on the “wrong” side. That’s why you need the fabric to look the same on both sides. Stitch the hem.

Take your rectangle and flip up one end to make your pocket, according to your measurement. I made an eight inch deep pocket. You want the hem to look nice, not inside out. It’s hard to tell in the picture, but the serged edge is on the inside of the pocket.

Then flip the top of your rectangle down so it meets the bottom of your pocket. You should have the “wrong” side of the hem facing you.

Now stitch the sides at a half or quarter inch seam. Zig zag or serge the edges.

I “bury” the tails when I serge. You need an embroidery needle to do this.

Run the needle through the last few stitches of your serging, eye end first. Hold on to the other end and don’t lose it. I’m not holding it because I am holding the camera but really hold it!

Pull the “tail” tight and thread it through the needle, being careful not to pull the end of the needle out of the serger stitches.

Pull the needle back through the stitches, with the tail following. Pull out the needle and the tail is buried in the stitches.

Trim and do that for the other tails.

Turn it right side out and put on your chair. If you have a helper, he will admire your work!

Now make 19 more! It won’t take you as long as the first one!

For kindergarten, she went with froggy fabric and we made a skort. I loved this skort pattern and made it quite a few times. It was challenging having to lengthen it to ensure it was appropriate for school, but very easy to put together.

I cut a frog out and stitched it to her t-shirt and covered the seams with ric rac. I wrote her name on it with a fabric pen the last minute. Megan had the same teacher as Jacob, so this was mostly for her new friends.

The next year, Jacob allowed me to make something for him. I was thrilled! He picked camo fabric for easy fit shorts. Oh well, at least it was something. I found a shirt from wal mart that matched. He wore it exactly one time, the first day of school:

Megan had big plans. I made her a twirl skort out of crayon fabric and appliqued a t-shirt. I can’t believe how much fabric it took, but she loved it!

I was ruffling forever! I am old school when I ruffle, I never could figure out the ruffle foot and never really liked the dental floss or sewing over elastic method. I am very OCD about my ruffles so I do them by hand to make sure they are perfectly even around the bottom. Thanks to Tom, it is is easier with upholstery thread in the bobbin, but it still takes forever for one twirl skirt and two twirl pant legs! It is so worth it to see the twirl though. I was pretty sad to see that it is way too short to wear this year, so off to Tessa it went. It is so nice to have a friend the same shape as Megan (tall and thin) exactly one year younger. Otherwise, I would sit and cry over the outfits that are too small!

The headband was super easy but I don’t make them much any more. They just do not stay on an active girl’s head. If she would just stand there and not move (or jump or play), it would be fine!

I also had run all over town looking for a cream colored shirt, which I thought would have matched better. Fortunately, someone on the disboutique thread convinced me black would look like a chalkboard so it would be fine, which it was. I was also distressed to find I ran out of all matching thread when I went to applique the letters on the shirt. A normal person would probably wait until the next day and go to the store, but after all that ruffling I was itching to be done. I used denim thread to applique around the letters. It really made it too thick and I probably should have waited, but I was happy to be finished!

Here they are together:

This year Jacob declined a custom made outfit so it was up to Megan. I had purchased a cute German pattern, the Katrin, and really wanted to make the wrap jumper. Unfortunately, the fabric Megan picked out is rather loud. It is bright yellow, with red apples and bees all over it. I tried to steer her over to the trendy owls in fall colors but she was not having it. I decided maybe a top would be better (and I wouldn’t have to worry about trying to lengthen it). So what size? I looked at her chest, bust and hips measurements, and they were all different sizes! I just closed my eyes and picked a size (not really, I just picked the one in the middle of the measurements) and went for it. The pattern came together quickly and easily. The hardest part making my own binding. That took forever and was not at all fun, but I really like the look so it was totally worth it.

I am trying to decide if it needs anything else. I think I have learned my lesson from headbands that end up lost or stuffed on the bottom of her backpack, but the urge is still there to accessorize. Also shoes! Black ballet flats would be perfect but won’t stay on her long narrow feet. I think we are going to head to the Skechers store today to see what we can find. They have to be cute, able for her to play in, and stay on her feet. And on sale wouldn’t be hurt either. Wish us luck!

Man, it *just* fits her; no growing allowed! It was easy and fun to make, so I am sure I will be doing this pattern again. I would love to do it in knits, if I could find some cute fabric. It also has adult sizes so I could make one for me. Not in bees and apples though! 

This school year scares me a little bit. Will I be able to keep up with my duties of PTA President and my hobbies and blog? I hope so!

10. Pin the bodice lining pieces right sides together to the dress bodice making sure that the corners all line up. At this point the straps are lying in between the bodice and the bodice lining hanging down.

Got it?

11. Sew around the top edge. Trim the seam allowance and grade the seam allowance at the V in the center.

“Grade the seam allowance” might sound weird, but all it means is to make little cuts in the back bodice piece in the V. I drew some on so you could see; just make some snips right up (but not over) the seam.

Next, trim your corners where you have a 90 degree turn, just the corners on the straps and where the buttonholes go.

Last trim around any curved part of the bodice with pinking shears. Or you can clip your curves. You want to clip and trim close to the seam, but don’t go over!

12. Turn the bodice, press and topstitch the top edge.

Use a bodkin (or something) to poke the corners out. Do not skip pressing! I know you were thinking about it!

13. Under the arms sew a row of stitching approximately 1 cm or 3/8 in. from the underarm seam. This should extend slightly beyond the side pieces.

Ok, this is what I do. Use a fabric marking pen (this is a pen with ink that will disappear when washed) mark 1/2 inch from the top along the side pieces. I make little dots but you can connect them to a line.  Start at one side:

And make little dots to the other side:

Now just stitch over your dots. Start at one side and backstitch and then follow the dots (or line if you connected them) to the other side and backstitch to lock.

14. Thread a piece of elastic through the resulting casing. Stitch one end of the casing, securing one end of the elastic. Try the dress on and cinch the elastic to the desired fit, pin the elastic. Stitch the elastic in place and trim any excess. Stitch the button holds and attach the buttons.

My side pieces measured at 6 inches across so I cut my 1/4 inch elastic at 4 inches. Do have your model try it on if she is available. The shorter you make the elastic the more difficult it is to thread and attach it though.

Here is my elastic with a safety pin:

Now remember which way you pressed your side seams. If you were paying attention they are pressed toward the back so you are going to want to thread the elastic from the front and ending in the back so it will be easier to navigate that side seam that is right in the middle of the casing. Work the safety pin in between the bodice and lining to the casing and push it through. When the end of the elastic just peeks out from the beginning opening of the casing, sew the casing closed. I follow the topstitch line for the side piece to make it easier. Don’t forget to backstitch: you don’t want your stitches coming out! Continue to thread the elastic through and when you get to the other end pull a little bit of elastic out and sew the other end closed.

I don’t like my lining flopping around, so I tack it down at the side seams. I just take a needle and thread and attach the lining to the seam with a few stitches. It won’t show from the front and will keep the lining inside, where it belongs.

You will be better prepared than me and have buttons all picked out. Yellow flowers was all that I could find that remotely matched so that’s what we’re going with today. Mark your buttonholes (or button holds, according to farbenmix) with a fabric pen. It should look like a capital I.

Sew your button holes, and sew your buttons on the straps and you are DONE! Great job!

I would love to see your vidas, so please let me know if you found this tutorial helpful.

Notice anything different? I decided to add a line of ric rac over the seam between the middle and the lower pieces. 

4. Stitch the side pieces and place them right sides together on the front and back middle dress pieces and stitch. Press the seam allowance towards the side pieces and topstitch.

You should have four side pieces, either of two different fabrics (for front and back) or one fabric for all four. Well, I guess you could have four different fabrics, but whatever. Take the side that you want for the front and line it up like so:

If you have any ruffle action going on, you might want to pin the bottom of the ruffle inward so it’s out of the way of the stitching.

Flip the side piece over and pin.

Sew, serge or zig zag, press toward the side and topstich. Repeat for the other side and attach the side pieces to the back the same way. Here it is with the side pieces stitched, seams serged and topstitched:

5. Lay the front and back dress pieces right sides together, pin and sew the side seams. Hem.

I learned from Carla it is much easier to press the hem on a straight edge instead of a tube, so I press the hem now and then I unfold the seams and stitch the sides together.

So then stitch and serge (or zig zag) the side seams and press them toward the back of the dress. Then refold the hem and sew it.

6. On the bodice lining pieces, iron on two small pieces of fusible interfacing where the buttonholes will be made. Do the same in the middle of the back bodice lining to strengthen at that point.

So for the front lining piece I cut two rectanglish squares of interfacing and iron on the back of the  front lining piece where buttonholes will go.

For the back lining piece I take the pattern piece and cut out the interfacing and then trim a little all the way around.

7. Fold the strap pieces in half lengthwise and stitch each of the long edges and one each of the short ends. Turn the shoulder strap pieces and press. Topstitch along the edges of the shoulder straps.

Confession time. I do not follow these instructions at all. I did the first time I made the vida and I didn’t like the straps at all. So now I do it this way:

I cut out 4 straps. I iron on interfacing on one set of straps. Sew two straps together (one with interfacing, one without), right sides together on three ends, leaving one short end open. Repeat for the other strap. Turn them right side out and press and topstitch. These are my straps:

8. Take the unfinished shoulder strap ends and pin them onto the right side of the back bodice and stitch into place on the seam allowance.

Nothing much to add here, except make sure the prettiest side of the straps is facing the bodice when you attach it.

9. Take the bodice lining pieces and sew them right sides together along their side seams. Hem the bottom edge.

Again, I press the hem before sewing the pieces together. I serge the bottom of each lining piece, press it up and then unfold and sew the lining pieces together. Then I refold and press and sew the hem.

Ok, let’s take a break! We’re almost done: next we’re going to put it all together!